Bespoke vs. Ready-to-Wear: Are We Obsessed?

whether we sometimes over-glorify the value of bespoke clothing compared to ready-to-wear. Is this obsession real?

As menswear communities continue to grow, bloggers and style aficionados worldwide often highlight the stark differences between a high-end bespoke suit and a “low-quality” ready-to-wear (RTW) piece. When newcomers ask for recommendations, the usual response tends to be, “Go bespoke, it’s better quality.” Whether intentional or not, this often comes across as dismissive toward RTW, branding it as inferior, lacking in sophistication, and simply not worth buying.

But today, I’m here to speak up for RTW, if only for a bit.

Even as someone who makes a living crafting garments for others, I find the generalisation between bespoke and RTW a bit misleading—and frankly, toxic. Misunderstanding this can lead to distorted perceptions, especially for newcomers, who are the primary audience of this blog.

So let’s return to the basics. What are bespoke and RTW?

Simply put, they are different processes by which a product is made.

Bespoke means a garment is crafted one by one, designed, measured, cut, and sewn specifically for the client, tailoring everything to the customer’s taste and body. On the other hand, Ready-to-Wear (RTW) refers to clothing that is designed and produced in larger quantities according to standardized measurements. And somewhere in between, there’s Made-to-Measure (MTM), where brands take pre-made patterns and adjust the final product based on the customer’s specific measurements.

That’s the foundation of the bespoke vs. RTW debate, and I haven’t yet mentioned the words “quality” or “sophistication.” Why? Because quality and the production process are entirely separate topics. Are they related? Yes, but they’re still distinct.

As consumers, we need to remain clear-headed and avoid falling for values that might not be suitable for us. If, like me, you’re budget-conscious and need to carefully balance your spending, you might want to consider RTW. If you’re fortunate enough to have a bit more freedom with your budget, then by all means, experiment. The more you try, the more you learn.

For those still unsure because they haven’t experienced either side yet, it’s like asking, “Which is better—dining at a restaurant or hiring a private chef?” There’s no straightforward answer. It entirely depends on what you’re eating, which restaurant you’re at, or who your private chef is and the quality of the ingredients they’re using.

I’m not dismissing the value of bespoke—far from it. But let’s not rush into it until we know what we want and what our wardrobe needs.

So, is RTW good quality? Absolutely! It depends on the brand. A sport jacket can range from hundreds to tens of thousands of dollars. While a higher price doesn’t always equate to better quality, it does reflect the target market. A brand aiming for the high-end segment must meet certain standards to satisfy its customers.

This naturally leads to another question:

Q: If I have enough to afford high-quality RTW, say around €1000 – €1500, why not just go bespoke, especially when the cost of bespoke garmets are getting more comfortable?
A: It depends. There’s no one-size-fits-all answer, and this blog isn’t here to tell people how to spend their money. If I had a budget of €1000 – €1500 for a new suit, what would I gain or lose with each option?

At the same price point, when it comes to fabric choices, RTW brands often offer more premium selections compared to the entry-level fabrics available for bespoke suits. Some fabrics are even exclusive to certain brands and can’t be purchased elsewhere.

Why? Because of the economy of scale, these brands buy their materials in bigger quantity. With a good RTW suit priced around €1000 – €1500 , you’re already looking at fairly fantastic fabric options, good construction and stunning finishes. On the other hand, achieving a similar fabric in bespoke can easily double or triple the price.

One of my greatest commissions in the Japan trip this year is this cotton DB sport coat RTW by Orazio Luciano with signature cut, full canvas construction and high percentage of handmade details

If your body fits a particular RTW brand well, I would advise buying the suit and making small alterations. This is genuine advice I gave to a good friend who, though no longer a newbie in the suit game, fits perfectly into a specific brand’s clothing. I recommended that he go with the RTW option rather than overcomplicate things with bespoke.

On the flip side, if fit and detail are paramount—like during times when my body didn’t fit into any RTW brand due to my small frame and bowed legs, or when I was obsessed with a particular lapel style I found in a book—then bespoke is the obvious choice. In these cases, the fabric quality wasn’t my main priority; it was the fit and style that mattered most.

Once upon a time, there was a time when I was so obsessed with those low gorge big lapel. And I got exactly what I wanted how I wanted it.

For those building their wardrobe from scratch, the question isn’t whether bespoke or RTW is better. The real question is: Do you know what you want, what you need, and what bothers you about your current wardrobe? If not, I’d suggest starting with RTW. Try different brands, see how they combine fabrics, and gradually figure out what works for you.

This way, you’ll avoid some common pitfalls:

• The Trap of Dissing Mass-Market Designs: People often criticise RTW for lacking personal flair. But I see this as a huge plus, especially when you’re unsure how to inject your personality into your wardrobe. Each brand has its own design language, aiming to appeal to as many people as possible. The most approachable designs are often the easiest to wear and style. Unusual and beautiful are not synonymous.
• The Trap of Greed: One big mistake when diving into bespoke too early is wanting everything to be the absolute best. When you get too focused on the details, you risk losing the overall harmony of the outfit.
• The Budget Trap: Remember, a suit can’t be worn with bare feet or a tank top underneath. Instead of pouring your entire budget into a bespoke suit, consider opting for a slightly cheaper option and leaving room for shoes, shirts, and of course socks.

In conclusion, both bespoke and RTW have their own unique strengths and weaknesses. As you progress along your style journey, you’ll discover which option suits you best. The more you understand, the better equipped you’ll be to make the right choice. This post may have been a bit long, but I wanted to give RTW its due credit. Hopefully, those who’ve been overly obsessed with bespoke will open their minds and maybe even find their ideal brand.

Happy shopping, everyone!
<3
Vinn